This is the correct answer - I know because I was there 10000 years ago and had to decide between this and buying a special case from koolance. Amusingly they still sell one for the outside.

They can also be handy if you have to do anything weird like route display cables from the GPU to the motherboard like for a thunderbolt display.

I found this video weird, because it seems like something you would post for a more general audience, but it front loads and spends a really long time on espresso machine maintenance. Even within his audience it feels like way more people will own and use a drip coffee machine, which they don’t spend much time on. Especially if you should actually put drip machine parts in the dishwasher - the manual often says it’s safe.

As far as I’ve found, they’re both right. You shouldn’t have to wash your mushrooms, but it’s not a bad idea if you’re not buying fancy mushrooms.

The generic button mushroom variants you’re probably getting at the grocery store are grown in compost, which often contains some manure - ie poops.

But before growing mushrooms it’s pasteurized. Mycelium is picky, and fairly easily out-competed by other stuff, so to make sure you’re just growing mushrooms and not bacteria you basically have to sterilize the medium they’re grown in.

But those mushrooms are often grown in open beds, and harvested by hand. And that means they get that poop dirt right up on them. Will it immediately give you super botulism? Probably not but it’s still kinda ick.

Fancier mushroom varieties from smaller cultivars are the ones that actually don’t really need washed and often shouldn’t be. They’re grown in highly sterile environments and they fruit out of a container, so they never touched the poop. And that’s if they even used compost - lots use straw or wood.

If you do decide to wash your button mushrooms it’s not a big deal, they aren’t actually sponges, and they don’t absorb as much water as some cooking shows say. If they get soggy it probably means they’re old, try putting them in the fridge for a few hours uncovered. It’s basically a dehydrator.

It entirely depends on how much and what you’ll use them for. They’re going to be around $200 USD all in, so if they’re for occasional use probably not. If you’re going to use them a lot like for work or a regular hobby then it’s not a crazy amount to spend. They tend to be more comfortable than flange earplugs, and a little better than foamies, but for me at least I don’t want them in for more than 3 hours.

Etymotic makes a few different ones for general noise, sleeping, music, and they also do ones for their earphones.

Look for a local print or embroidery shop that you can get like work shirts and business cards and whatnot made. Unless you’re really in the middle of nowhere, there’s probably a local print shop that will at least be able to point you in the right direction. If you want a one off instead of a small batch look for a place that offers embroidery - it sounds more expensive but because they can just throw whatever on the machine and do a one off, it’s usually actually less expensive than traditional screen printing. Specifically for hats in not sure if you can get them digitally printed in most smaller local shops.

If you are working with a specific company to produce a personalized / custom product, they will generally have at least one person on staff that can do design, or at least deal with any file conversion and technical stuff like that. They should be able to quote you a price.

If you are working with an artist first, they may have a company they’re familiar with to have the item produced, and if they do, should be able to handle most of it themselves. If they don’t, or you would like it produced somewhere specific, just let the artist know - most places will have all the information the artist will need on their website, or the artist can just get in touch with them directly.

In general, if you’re going to an artist or design shop they should be able to give you some kind of quote with a very rough idea of what you want - especially if they do this professionally, talking to people who don’t have an art background is basically half their job. If you want to be specific it’s much more useful to send something like a mood board or a collage of similar things than a bunch of text. It’s also generally a good idea to be open to their ideas, as they often have experience that may be helpful and will see some problems much quicker than you might.

We use a few Schlage connect zwave deadbolts, and they have been basically rock solid. We’re using them through Smartthings, but home assistant should work just as well. We have hardwired zwave light switches next to all of them, apparently that can help with the reliability since they will act as zwave repeaters in case the lock doesn’t pick up the signal first time - especially for changing the codes.

Are they a perfect lock that no one will be able to pick? Probably not, but it’s a lot faster to just put a brick through your window no matter how good your locks are.

Personally I’d like it if instead of just seeing the comment I’m replying to in the top half, I could just see the whole thread with maybe a button to go back to the comment that I’m replying to and it being highlighted or something.

Warning: Papaton is borderline impossible when you combine Bluetooth headphone and controller lag.

Propaganda from who? Big newspaper? Big book publisher? Big stick and wheel?

I thought this was a Mystery Flesh Pit National Park post for a second.

Yes, how dare someone try to engage with the artist. Art is for looking at, going “hmm that’s nice” and then never talking about it again.

I think you just invented Windows 13.

I had a similar problem recently. I switched to a titanium heat break since I apparently have a habit of tightening the aluminum ones a bit too hard, and it was fine for a while but I started getting clogs basically every print at about the 10 minute mark that seemed like heat creep. I couldn’t figure out what the deal was since titanium should be even better about heat creep.

It turned out that the machining for the heat breaks might have been too rough I think? Or at least not “perfect” in some way. I had a ton of problems until I “seasoned” them with mineral oil. Basically throw a couple drops in the heat break with it at about 250. Obviously be very careful since it’s flammable. You could probably accomplish something similar with an old school filament oiler.

To be fair 10ths are a thing in surveying. And occasionally engineering I guess but I’ve never seen it.

I want a ruler in 3rds just to mess with people now though.

As someone who did this within the last couple years, my suggestion would be to just buy whatever new kit appeals to you and don’t worry about adapting your lenses. If you had Minolta autofocus lenses it might be worth getting into older Sony A Mount system, but if I remember right the adapter Minolta made for the manual focus lenses is rare and expensive.

I had a bunch of manual zuiko lenses and kit for my Olympus OMs, and adapted them on a Canon apsc DSLR and now a Sony a7s full frame. The fact of the matter is that other than a few times that I need a specialty lens the one modern lens that I bought basically lives on it.

Focusing a manual focus lens on an autofocus body is really hard. The focusing screens aren’t really made for it. On the mirror less a7s it’s better, but that’s largely because you can zoom way in on the screen and it has focus peaking like a video camera.

If you don’t care about video (which is worth considering) an older Sony is worth considering. An a6000 with the kit lens should run about 350-400 USD for the body used and about 50-150 for a used kit lens. Even the fancy g master standard zoom runs about 4-500 USD used. That’s looking at keh.com anyway, you could probably get a better deal on marketplace or eBay - they were very popular and pop up locally pretty much everywhere. If you want video moving to a new body like the 6400 gives you 4k which is a nice to have.

If I remember correctly, it’s not the freezing point. Fahrenheit used a brine that included ammonium chloride to set 0 on his scale since it was the closest thing he could make in his lab that was a consistent temperature. The other end was body temperature, which he set at 96 if I’m remembering right since it’s more easily divisible than 100. He was a little off on his body temperature measurements so it’s considered a little higher than that now.

Often they serve areas where there’s basically no cell coverage. That’s why we used them when we did after trying a number of antennas and boosters. We’ve had neighbors put up 12m towers in conjunction with the WISP to get service.

It is and it isn’t, those are pretty standard fixed wireless rates. It’s largely used in pretty rural areas where you wouldn’t be able to get fiber or cable or often even DSL. They compete against things like hughesnet that’s more expensive and has something like a 15gb data cap. Or starlink for $150 a month and $500 of equipment and the weight on your soul of giving Elon money.

They often run wireless backhauls for tens of miles across multiple towers so bandwidth is pretty limited and setup and maintenance is somewhat specialized. Like yeah if you can get cable or fiber do that it’s way better. But when there’s no other option is not that bad all things considered.

If the signal is decent I’d bet there’s a problem upstairs too.

Going through Airbnb support really isn’t worth it and will take forever. Just message the hosts directly. If you have an Airbnb account you can be added as a guest on the trip by her and message them yourself if she doesn’t want to deal with it.