My router is called Jupiter, everything connected to it is named after a moon. Callisto, Ganymede, Thelxinoe, Kallichore are what I’m currently using.

IIRC, this is actually done at some point in the books.

You can host a Firefox sync server yourself. You could run that on something like a Raspberry Pi in your local network. If you need remote access, use something like cloudflare tunnels (although I guess that’s something else to be paranoid about).

Windows is clearly superior. If you’ve had enough of the settings app, you can just switch to the control center!

Reminds me of this: Falsehoods Programmers Believe About Names

It is more efficient to have a ship moving with cargo than without, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t additional emissions. The ratio of profit to effort is just higher because there is some profit as opposed to none. You wouldn’t load a ship up with useless mass you can’t sell just so you’re shipping something.

Your argument is like always running the heater in your car because that way the engine heat is at least used for something. Yes, technically the efficiency goes up because more of the energy in the fuel is harnessed. But that doesn’t mean the fuel usage or emissions are any lower, and in the summer the heater doesn’t do you any good either.

That’s why I don’t let every device decide individually. I know my router (FritzBox) prioritizes the pi-hole (it’s even called “preferred” and “alternative” DNS-Server in the UI)

I have my pi-hole setup as the upstream DNS in my router, with cloudflare as a secondary DNS. That way, all my devices always use the router for DNS (since that’s what is advertised in my DHCP) and the router then uses pi-hole if it’s available, or cloudflare if it isn’t. But the individual device doesn’t get to choose between different servers.

That study states that brain damage can cause more conservative views, but the reverse isn’t true. Not everyone with conservative views has brain damage.

Tightening the belts seems to have helped, but I will have to do some more printing to be sure. Thanks for your help!

The belts are parallel to the axis, but I will try tightening them some more.

This is a 40x40 cube printed in vase mode:

The corners look pretty okay on that:

But I don’t see these kind of results on real-world parts. I guess I have to print some more test parts to narrow down the problem.

That might be part of it, my filament is probably pretty wet. I’ll try some other rolls of filament.

The part is just pretty small, I have the EW set to 0.45 mm withe 0.4 nozzle. But I will try turning it down further.

The rounding looks much more extreme than what I would expect or have seen on other printers I worked with (mostly Ultimakers).

It’s a printer of my own design running marlin. I’m going to try disabling input shaping, but if I remember correctly the problem was already there before I ever enabled it.

Good point, see my edit

I’m guessing it’s about documenting the assembly of safety-critical components. If some part of, let’s say an airplane fails because a bolt comes loose, the manufacturer wants to have a paper trail attached to it to prove that this specific bolt was indeed torqued to the correct spec. Connecting the wrench to the network could make this documentation much easier.

You can try to disable software End-Stops with this gcode:

M211 S0

Be aware though, if you do that, there is nothing preventing your printer from trying to move beyond the hardware limits and possibly destroying itself. You can enable the end-stops again with:

M211 S1

Marlin reference page

Matlab

It’s called HDR (High Dynamic Range) photography. Your phone is taking three pictures: one at a medium exposure, one at a bit higher exposure and one at a bit lower exposure.

The higher exposed picture will have a blown-out sky, but more detail in the darker area, while the lower-exposed one will have a correctly exposed sky with the darker areas underexposed.

These pictures are then combined by taking the correctly exposed areas of each picture, i.e. the sky from the low-exposure picture and the shadows from the high-exposure one, giving you a single picture without over- or underexposed areas.

I don’t know about OpenCamera, but you should be able to select the size of the exposure bracket, meaning how much higher or lower the different pictures are exposed.