Those aren’t supposed to be round on top.

  • Zombiepirate@lemmy.world
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    1 day ago

    When I used to fix cars for a dealership we would sometimes have the service advisor ask us to do work for free. “Come on, it’ll just take you ten minutes!”

    I’d tell them that they can do it themselves if it only takes ten minutes. “But I don’t know how to do that!”

    You’re not just paying for the part, you’re paying for the knowledge, time, and tools of the technician.

    • rumba@lemmy.zipOP
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      1 day ago

      And to be completely honest, if you call an HVAC repair company, they’re likely to do a whole PM cycle on it. Flush the condensate line and pan, clean the coils and the heat exchanger, replace the contactor if you have one, take the temperature differential to make sure the unit is operating reasonably well, replace the blower belt it’s not direct drive. I PM the unit myself every spring and fall. I probably should have had eyes on that cap though.

      • Canonical_Warlock@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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        7 hours ago

        Yeah, testing caps is also a pretty regular part of our PM process. Especially because that one looks like it may partially be a run cap and a system can often run perfectly fine without a run cap except it will cause the motor to pull higher amps and run hotter. Catching a bad run cap early is the difference between replacing a bad cap and replacing a burned up motor.

        Edit: Although you’re already doing far more for your system than most. I’m an actual tech and it’s been a shamefully long time since my equipment at home has had a full PM done.

        • rumba@lemmy.zipOP
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          2 hours ago

          That’s good to hear, thanks for that. Yes it’s a dual cap. I’ll have to dig out my LC meter and add that to my list.

          It was a new build, my old plays I didn’t stay on top of things and ended up paying for it. I decided to do a better job here.

          My very first maintenance I went down to look at what I needed to do. It’s a trane unit, so the evaporator coil and the condensate pan come out on a slide which is pretty fancy. The condensate line, combustion and exhaust air are all PVC and they glued it all so you couldn’t get the tray out. (The air lines don’t even go into the box they just ran it past the front for spite I think)

          Hope you don’t mind if I ask you two questions, not holding you accountable or anything.

          What are you guys using for condenser coil cleaner? I just got some off-the-shelf home Depot stuff but it looks sus. I pulled the case and separated the coils out at the two-year mark and followed the instructions on the cleaner. I didn’t see any physical dirt anywhere and there’s no leaves or debris. Without physical dust dirt or debris do you think just hosing it down from the outside on PM is fine?